May 082013
 

2012 and 2013 has been an interesting time period for the development of technology into fashion, specifically with the development of Google Glass. Although, outside of the sporting good market where else have we seen advances in technological fashion to your mass markets? At a whopping expected price point of $1,500 who exactly does Google think they are marketing to?

Currently Google has a lead in the advances toward incorporating “computers” into fashionable items in the accessory market. Apple has also been rumored to be coming out with iWatch which is again in the accessory market. We have yet to see advances in the Ready To Wear market outside of the health and fitness arena. Techno Fashion by Bradley Quinn was published in 2002 and references the i-Wear project which was a production of prototype garments. This project was experimenting with making clothing that used laptops, mobile devices, and batteries which we are just now starting to see with the development of these new “smart” fashion pieces.

“Our philosophy was to integrate very naturally the technology into the clothing. The i-Wear shouldn’t hinder people’s movements, it should be like normal clothing, but with many new options. It should be a second skin that feels what is going on inside the body and outside in the environment and takes action using that data.” De Brouwer (Quinn, p. 103)

So from 2002 to 2013 we haven’t made any leaps and bounds towards the mass market having access to this kind of “i-Wear” that De Brouwer and his team were working on for a span of five years but is Google Glass about to bridge this gap? Much like the Apple fanboys Google has a strong following and they may have the brand power and hype on their side to make this technological advance stick around. While they clearly are not at a point to bring the cost to a more consumer friendly place they sure do have enough hype around their product. Currently the product is in the hands of thousands of developers and will soon be out for an “everyday” consumer to purchase…of course an everyday consumer who has $1,500 lying around to purchase on a gadget that may or may not stick around.

The question that I would like to pose is, are we at a point were people are ready to rely less on their phone and more on an item of “fashion”? Phones over the past decade have taken a place in our society as a statement of wealth and also a fashion statement. We have come a long way from the brick phones from the 80′s to the newest iPhone 5′s sleek design. So many people base their status in society on what phone they carry that are we ready to make the jump to glasses or a watch that will make a phone almost useless besides for its original purpose, to make phone calls. It can be easily seen every time Apple comes out with a new iPhone that this piece of hardware is so extremely important that people will wait for days in line just to be the first to have one. It has yet to be seen how Google will market this item to the mass public but it will be interesting to see if your average customer will want to try them on.

In an article from Mashable.com they referenced an infographic from footwear retailer Brantano that seems to be quite useful in this discussion.   

infographic from http://www.brantano.co.uk

infographic from http://www.brantano.co.uk

 

May 082013
 

Researchers in Sweden have recently come up with a new way to differentiate between designer products and knockoffs, by weaving a high-tech thread into the fabric that can be detected through a polarizing filter. The thread reveals a pattern that is only visible while being polarized, with the intention stopping the shipment of counterfeit goods.

invisiblethread

 

Counterfeit products, (or knockoffs) are high in demand in many places that are prosperous enough to desire them, because they are status symbols and signifiers of taste without the heavy price tag. Those that create the knockoffs know that they will always have a market for them (especially if they’re good knockoffs), so once they get past inspection it’s smooth sailing from there.

I didn’t really think much of this until a writer at Slate brought up why this is significant by labor standards. Actual companies can be held accountable for the labor conditions that their workers exist in, but there is not an authority or watchful public that monitors those that make knockoffs. It’s idealistic to think that major companies would abide by labor laws because they will get into trouble if they don’t, but there is that level of pressure that consumers can exert on them until they change their practices. Existing in a space where there is no monitoring public could lead to poor working conditions and abuse of workers. Having an easier way to identify counterfeit goods could, ideally, curb the creation and distribution of them,which would not only help the designer companies, but potentially shutdown illegal factories.

May 082013
 

I read about Wanelo as a sort of new way for shoppers to interact with each other by sharing wish lists, tagging friends on items, and following certain stores and people. The “posting things I want” aspect is pretty reminiscent of Pinterest (though that’s not Pinterest’s expressed function, it’s frequently used that way), with the huge difference that the photos are directly linked to stores. Social online shopping originally made me extremely uncomfortable, but after thinking about it for a while, I realized that shopping is, for some, a very social activity. With friends who largely communicate online, would it really be that much of a stretch for them to shop online together as well?

startshopping

Since its inception the website has become very popular. The utility of being able to follow people online (say, fashion bloggers or your friends) and see what they have selected from shops, with the added ability to purchase that item, takes a few steps out of the shopping process. So in a way, shopping online becomes more or a social activity than it was previously, and fans of fashion are able to more easily purchase things recommended to them by stores (if they choose), friends, or fashion bloggers.

My hesitancy about this is very similar to my hesitancy about fashion blogs and sponsored posts. The line between expression and shilling a product is very thin in that regard, and even though most fashion bloggers announce what posts are sponsored and profess not to have a sponsored post for a product that they do not care for, it seems unlikely that everyone would be able to differentiate sponsored posts, and that the motivation of money had little to do with the choice of sponsorship in the first place. Wanelo as a service is easy to critique on a consumption basis, but I get more concerned about the information certain stores might have on you after you start selecting and tagging your friends in their products. Before clearing out my browser, I had the same advertisement for a pair of shoes that I had looked at following me everywhere online, so I imagine that problem might be exacerbated for those that frequently select products on Wanelo.

followpeople

Online shopping is usually risky when it comes to privacy and retaining information about yourself, but it seems like for those not particularly careful, services like Wanelo can make for uncomfortable marketing experiences in the future. I can definitely see that Wanelo has its uses and value, but I worry about the information that might potentially get shared, and who it would get shared with.

May 152012
 

 

Photo from a runway show overlaid with the Amazon "add to cart" button.

Original image by Flickr User annelope; Modified for use on Fashioning Circuits under a CC-by license.

Wearable media may be limited to certain tech savvy or avant garde sectors of society, but this does not mean that emerging media has no impact on fashion for most users.

Shopping is one area in which much of the population might encounter the intersection of fashion and emerging media. On Fashioning Circuits we’ve covered a multitude of ways in which retailers are attempting to leverage emerging media to increase sales.

Though one has long been able to purchase clothing, shoes, and accessories on Amazon, Monday’s New York Times article makes it clear that the online retailer has set its sights on the fashion elite.

Unlike retailers such as Target who have recently moved to feature lower end lines from big-name designers, Amazon is trying to capture the attention of those who are accustomed to shopping in high-end stores. It would seem that the availability on Amazon will deplete the aura of scarcity that is often associated with such high end consumption.

Virgnia Postrel’s essay “How Unhip Amazon Can Walk the Fashion Runway“ offers some interesting advice to Amazon. The opportunities to showcase new talent and connect with philanthropic missions seem as though they could work particular well to use the affordances of the net and overcome the aura issue.

Apr 262012
 

Window shopping is a phrase that usually implies looking at a display of mannequins wearing trendy garments and accessories, such as designer sunglasses and handbags. The visual displays are designed to lure customers by suggesting that they too can look fashionable in the same products. Thanks to Bloomingdale’s new virtual window displays, customers really can see themselves wearing designer sunglasses.

Image Courtesy of Mashable.com

The Lexington Avenue NYC Bloomingdale’s is currently featuring virtual LCD screens in six interactive windows through May 7. Each window has four options of sunglasses from designers such as Marc Jacobs, Roberto Cavalli, Miu Miu, Gucci, and FENDI, which any passerby can “try on” before walking into the store.

The window display locates a woman’s eyes and positions a selected pair of frames on her image as projected by the built-in camera. A front view and profile show the woman how the actual designer sunglasses might fit her face shape. If there is a pair that a shopper particularly likes, she can press the “Print” button. The selected style and virtual image are sent to a salesperson inside Bloomingdale’s who will help the customer try on and potentially buy the frames she saw in the window. Continue reading »

Apr 102012
 
Ladies Undewear Options on MeUndies.com

Ladies Undewear Options on MeUndies.com

Remember when lingerie shopping involved actually browsing a bricks-and-morter boutique and blushing under the judgemental gaze of snooty sales clerks? Well it seems that the lingerie boutique may be about to face the same tragic fate as the dinosaur. That is if the new underwear-on-demand company Me Undies  has anything to say about it.

Me Undies has turned the traditional lingerie business model on its lacy head by forgoing the traditional boutique, and even the traditional retail outlet, and offering customers two very unique ways to shop for undies. The first is a sort of “skivvy of the month” subscription service wherby customers, both male and female, can have a curated selection of undies delivered straight to their door on a monthly autoship. Customers set up an account on meundies.com and input their unique underwear preferences by completing an online questionnaire. Their preferences are then saved for them in their own unique online underwear “drawer.” The signup process kind of reminds me of a social network except that it’s for…well…an underwear subscription.

The second, and I think most fascinating, method of skivvy acquisition that MeUndies proposes, however, is the the company’s national network of…wait for it…underwear vending machines! That’s right, you can now purchase your unmentionables out of a vending machine. The company has plans to place their underwear vending machines in hotels, fitness centers and airports nationwide, so that their customers can purchase the underwear of their choosing, at literally any hour, while enjoying greatly discounted prices – no salesperson required.  You know, for all of those unexpected underwear emergencies we all find ourselves in. Touting their product as  ”the world’s most comfortable underwear,” the company’s founders say that they aim for Me Undies to be a true e-commerce retailer and minimize it’s cost structure by operating online and via vending machine. Those savings, reportedly about 30% less than comparable designer undergarments, are then passed on to the consumer.

The retail lingerie sector has been long overdue for some innovation, and I certainly think Me Undies has a very unique business model. However, I don’t know that I’m quite ready to queue up to purchase my unmentionables out of an airport vending machine. What do you think? Could this perhaps be the start of a new trend in automated underwear? For some reason I’m hearing The Jetson’s theme song in my head right now.

 

 

 

Apr 062012
 

Remember when you would watch a music video, lust after the clothes you’d seen, and then scour the internet searching for similar threads? Gone are those days! Ssense, an online clothing retailer, has styled the “World’s First Interactive Shoppable Music Video.”

The music video “I Think She Ready” features duo FKi, rapper Iggy Azalea, and Grammy-nominated producer Diplo, and they are all styled by Ssense. The video uses interactive hotspot technology to allow fans to view and shop for every item that is seen in the video. During the music video, white square icons with the letter “S” pop up on the screen. Rolling over the icon will expand the “S” to “SHOP THIS LOOK”. Clicking on those icons will take you to a screen that shows each of the products worn in the selected shot. Each article of clothing links to the Ssense product page where the item can be viewed and added to a cart for purchase.

Image Courtesy of Ssense.com

Even though the white icons only appear sporadically throughout the video, do we really want music videos to display these distracting icons each time we watch them? If this trend catches on (and I think it will), perhaps the icons will become smaller or less intrusive in future music videos. Continue reading »

Mar 182012
 

Image courtesy of Gap.com

This week,  GapKids and BabyGap released a collaborative Diane von Furstenburg collection.  Adult, designer DVF dresses are in the $200 – $300 range,  but the Gap collection is much more affordable at the $55 – $70 range.  This collection, of course sold out almost immediately, just like the many designer/box-store collaborations in the last decade.

In 2003, well known high-end designer Isaac Mizrahi partnered with Target to create an affordable line that would be sold in their stores which would end up being a huge hit for the next six years. Since then, Target has had an influx of short-term guest-designer lines from such names as Alexander McQueen, Jason Wu, and of course Missoni.  H&M has been doing it for years, with popular lines designed by such names as Madonna, Karl Lagerfeld, Roberto Cavalli, Jimmy Choo, and more recently Versace. These designer lines are a huge hit, oftentimes selling out the first day, even if later to appear on eBay.

The underlying question to all of these lines is why?  Certainly consumers love the idea of owning a piece of clothing designed by a big, respected name, and stores love to sell things that consumers want to buy.  But what is behind the desire to wear or own the more affordable and yes, cheaper version of a designer’s product? Continue reading »

Mar 122012
 

M Saraswathy’s brief BusinessWorld article (Tech Couture: Fashion keeps a date with augmented reality) outlines some recent uses of AR in advertising, including uses at Lakme Fashion Week. The article ends with a tempered approach suggesting that so far, advertisers have not been able to tell if AR translates into more sales.

Even so, the possibilites for augmented reality with fashion advertising seem endless. Because clothing is a visual communicator, AR offers many interesting possibilities for layering visuals over bodies, environments, etc. The “Fashionista” tool below allows shoppers to try on clothing wherever they may be, using augmented reality.

But AR offers other tantalizing prospects for causing disjunction in the public spaces in which clothing is sold and worn.

So far the most interesting uses of AR that I have seen have been for aesthetic or critical purposes. I can envision AR being used for purposes like overlaying images of the workers who produce clothing items or the workshops in which they are produced. Or statistics about ethically sourced material. Or overlaying images of real women over advertisements or mannequins. Or, or, or…

A few links to interesting AR projects:

Feb 142012
 

A lovely young woman sits with her purse in her lap and her phone in her hands. She coyly smiles, looks around, and yawns as she waits in a department store. If a stranger begins to pester her, she ignores him. This scenario is fairly ordinary. However, this is no ordinary young woman: this is an android mannequin responding to curious shoppers from the inside of a window display.

As part of a Valentine’s Day promotion, Tokyo department store Takashimaya will be displaying Dr. Hiroshi Ishiguro’s Geminoid-F android mannequin in its store window. The life-like mannequin has a set of 60 different facial expressions at its disposal to lure in and interact with passing shoppers. The robot is connected to a Kinect sensor complete with facial recognition software that allows for it to have a unique response to each person who passes by.  Continue reading »